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This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and we’ll do our best to answer it, either ourselves or by passing it on to one of a number of successful fanciers who have indicated that they are happy to give advice. We kick off with a couple of questions on loft ventilation…
Question: Asked by Richie Simmons, College Town
Part 1: What is the best way to ventilate a loft and how can it be proved to be the right way?
Answer: by Chris Knowles
I don't believe that there is an exact answer or indeed just one specific answer to this question. As always when defining or designing a solution to such a question it is important to understand or at least be aware of certain basic data. For example, what is the shape and dimensions of the space that is to be ventilated? What direction is the loft facing in relation to the prevailing winds? Is air movement around the loft "free" from all sides or are there natural obstructions such as trees close by or perhaps buildings.
The reason that all of the above play into the equation is that to get the "ventilation" of a loft right or as close to the ideal as possible, you need to facilitate gentle and adequate exchange of air that maintains an acceptable temperature through day and night, so that the oxygen level is suitable for the number of birds housed to keep perfect health. The targetstats are 10 to 15 degrees centigrade and 55% to 65% humidity. If the internal environment is within this range and there is 2 to 3 cubic feet per pigeon of space inside the loft, then the basics for a well ventilated loft are in place.
There are obvious simple facts that need to be considered, such as warm/fouled air being warmer than cooler/fresher air. Air intake should not be such therefore that it can sit on top of fouled air and trap it in pockets and the extraction of fouled air will be more efficient if placed at roof level.
On my own lofts I have a chimney effect extraction via 18"roof vents in each section. I have windows that can be opened if required and where there are louver vents they are about 9 inches above floor level and the backs are covered with Contratex mesh, which is draught proof. I regulate my lofts according to the weather and am always wary of cold damp days when humidity is sky high. In my racing sections I also have radiant panel heaters in the section walls, which are run through a thermostat and hygrostat when I deem them necessary to combat high humidity. It goes without saying that the use of insulation in the design of a loft will also make a very positive contribution to environmental control.
I hope that the above is of some use and that youcan extrapolate a solution from the content. In summary, ventilation is a whole lot more than just allowing the outside air to blow into your loft. At this time of year where I live in North East Cheshire, humidity levels are well into the nineties and this will prevail through to the coming spring. Temperatures drop significantly at night and moisture saturates the air and oxygen levels drop. You can see the impact on the pigeons’ droppings if you don't do something to keep the high humidity at bay. It is easy to see at this time of year but the principle is still the same during racing season, only not as exaggerated, and this fine environmental line can be the difference between a good season with good results or just another one of disappointments. The key is to have your loft so that you can deal with whatever Nature throws your way. I see that you live inBerkshire, which is generally a degree or so warmer than up here and if I were you, I would make myself a few research visits to successful lofts in that area and then formulate my plan with the above in mind.
Best Regards
Chris KnowlesQuestion: Asked by Richie Simmons, College Town
Part 2: Firstly many thanks for your reply to my first question. There was obviously a reason why I asked it, which I will try and explain here. I was doing OK with my old loft and birds, sometimestaking the first three in club etc., flying just 12 widowhood cocks.Wanting to do better, I pulled the old loft down and to be fair it was rotten here and there anyway so a similar design was built with a tiled roof this time. The old family of birds were disposed of and new stock purchased at a price of near on £5000, yes that's right, £5000! They were all super pedigree jobs this time. Three years running I have lost 99% of the youngsters bred and I am trying to work out if it's poor stock or poor loft and yes, I do medicate as and when required. What would your thoughts be on trying to improve matters? I have forty years in the sport but your views would be appreciated...
Answer: by Chris Knowles
Hi Richie. It is interesting to hear that you went for a tiled roof, which I presume is either apex or offset apex in design. I know of various lofts in England and Belgium/Holland, where they have had problems with ventilation on tiled roof lofts. The first possibility would be with the old pan type tiles where the air gaps get blocked over time with a build up of feather plume & dust etc. This could not be the case with a new loft however. The next thought is if the heavy concrete type tiles are used with little or no air gaps (breathing) when laid. This material absorbs a lot of moisture and in our climate could cause very high humidity and low oxygen levels within the loft. This situation would be amplified if for young bird racing the darkening method is used as there would be added restricted air flow movement. The final scenario could come from a tiled roof where the ridge tiles are cemented on when they are required to breathe as part of the ventilation process.
I have visited many successful lofts where the only ventilation is the roof tiles and in every case they have been the old pan type tiles. However, the more modern day type lofts which use tiles, nearly always have optional louvers in the front and sometimes the sides, which can be closed or partly closed if/when required.
I would be tempted to run a series of tests on temperature and humidity. You can buy quite cheaply nowadays small weather stations run on battery that will record highest and lowest temperature and humidity through the day and the night. It would also be worth obtaining one of those little smoke bomb devices used by ventilation engineers, so that you could observe the air movement and exchange rate for yourself. Another solid test, although it sounds a little crazy, is to ask a friend or relative who suffers from asthma to spend a minute or two in your loft and to tell you how they find the air in terms of oxygen.
I am sure that you can appreciate how difficult it is to be constructive by exchange of e-mail but I hope that the above is of some assistance to you.
Best Regards
Chris Knowles
